French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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Bong!!!
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Re: French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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foto-k10 hat geschrieben: 02 Jun 2023 06:25 I'm lucky, that you don't follow strickly your rule.
Beaches are too nice not to show us these pictures.
Thank you for the compliment (-: I think, all things considered, I've probably managed to not exceed the limit of fifteen pictures, like, on average. Haven't divided the total number of photos by the number of days spent in Polynesia though :-D It was primarily about not having several thousand pictures that no one will ever look at.
By the way, I'm currently traveling without my laptop, so I'll start to post another pictures next weekend (-:
foto-k10 hat geschrieben: 02 Jun 2023 06:25 That's true for nearly every subject on earth.
You're certainly right about that. And it also applies to photography, if we stick to this kind of "business", so to speak.

However, with photography, you don't usually bother the people around you with noise. It's relatively easy to take photos in a way that doesn't invade anyone's privacy....

And another thing, photographs, even of the same places at the same time, are often different in many ways... Whereas non professional drone shots, in most cases, it's looks like a carbon copy of each other. At least that's my impression.
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Bong!!!
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Re: French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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Suse:
That's okay, after all, I've been adding new photos here quite slowly. I thought it would go faster once I have them sorted, but no, it still takes a while to select specific ones, create some meaningful description, check time line and then proofread everything... Also, I always have to get in the right "writing" mood, so to speak, because this isn't something I have a natural talent for (-:

I agree that processing longer texts on a mobile phone is not comfortable at all, I totally understand, as I wrote above, I'm travelling right now and I don't have my laptop :-D

Yes, in Teahupoo I recalled your travelogue at the Coca Cola vending machines, and the chair - although I think you took a photo of a different chair in a slightly different place.

Hmm, that's an interesting approach - I mean after a year or so, visiting the same places in such a far away destination. On the other hand, this is exactly what I did in Seychelles, so in the end, why not… (-: Although as I wrote in the beginning of the travelogue, Polynesia is a bit more difficult in my opinion.

If I were to go to French Polynesia again, I would probably visit other islands. Definitely the Moorea and the Marquesas. I might add Gambier. But, it's not on the agenda at the moment.

Fakarava was the last island, so I hope to get to it soon. It's also the last island from which the postcard I sent hasn't arrived yet (-:
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foto-k10
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Re: French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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Bong!!! hat geschrieben: 04 Jun 2023 19:59 I agree that processing longer texts on a mobile phone is not comfortable at all, I totally understand, as I wrote above, I'm travelling right now and I don't have my laptop :-D
You may find a "foldable bluetooth keyboard" at online shops. Before corona price was about 20 €, now it is 30 € or more.
Some are with english layout, some with german QWERTZ (but it depends on your smartphone , if german layout works).

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stupid advertisment ... who would need it on a laptop? :lol:
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mr.minolta
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Re: French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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Bong!!! hat geschrieben: 04 Jun 2023 19:59Hmm, that's an interesting approach - I mean after a year or so, visiting the same places in such a far away destination. On the other hand, this is exactly what I did in Seychelles, so in the end, why not… (-: Although as I wrote in the beginning of the travelogue, Polynesia is a bit more difficult in my opinion.
As far as I'm concerned, visiting the same places again and again is the way it should be if you like to learn intensively about a travel destination and its people. Also it might be difficult to find uninhabited islands like those we already used to hire to ourselves in the future, when everything will be more and more crowded and expensive too, even in French Polynesia. So Suse and I intend to go back to Raivavae soon where not only Motu Rani but a second Robinson-island might be prepared on our arrival. What a luxury choice this would be! :wink: So we would try to live on both of them within two weeks.

Thank you for your report!

Did you consider to upload your photos in full resolution by a picture host like this one? https://www.directupload.net/

I think, this would be great!
Es scheint, daß es neben der Republik der Seychellen auf der Welt kein zweites Land gibt, das für sich selbst derart ausdrücklich mit besonderem Umweltschutz wirbt und in der Realität so unfaßbar dreist das absolute Gegenteil davon praktiziert.
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Bong!!!
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Re: French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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foto-k10 hat geschrieben: 05 Jun 2023 06:26 You may find a "foldable bluetooth keyboard" at online shops. Before corona price was about 20 €, now it is 30 € or more.
Some are with english layout, some with german QWERTZ (but it depends on your smartphone , if german layout works).
This totally reminded me of the old days, before the current concept of smartphones. Back then I used PDAs - PalmOS at first, then I switched to PocketPC (Windows Mobile) (-:

And that was the keyboard I had back then. It wasn't bad, however, in terms of comfort, it still couldn't match a computer with a full keyboard, mouse, big screen...
mr.minolta hat geschrieben: 08 Jun 2023 01:34 As far as I'm concerned, visiting the same places again and again is the way it should be if you like to learn intensively about a travel destination and its people.
Yes, I understand that. This way of travelling suits me too. However, I had a bit of a problem in this regard in French Polynesia because of the language barrier, as I wrote in the introduction.
mr.minolta hat geschrieben: 08 Jun 2023 01:34 Also it might be difficult to find uninhabited islands like those we already used to hire to ourselves in the future, when everything will be more and more crowded and expensive too, even in French Polynesia. So Suse and I intend to go back to Raivavae soon where not only Motu Rani but a second Robinson-island might be prepared on our arrival. What a luxury choice this would be! :wink: So we would try to live on both of them within two weeks.
Motu Rani looked like an amazing experience and I would definitely want to try something like that too if the opportunity arises. Although I'd probably only need a few days. (-:

mr.minolta hat geschrieben: 08 Jun 2023 01:34 Thank you for your report!

Did you consider to upload your photos in full resolution by a picture host like this one? https://www.directupload.net/

I think, this would be great!
You're welcome.

As for uploading photos - I use abload.de, and upload them there in the original resolution. So the resulting quality shouldn't differ from the photos I have stored on my phone.

The original resolution is relatively lower, yes, however I was photographing everything with a mobile phone, so given the physical limits of optics I'm not sure if the higher resolution would have been any gain in the end. I do print some of the photos, but I don't go over the size of about 20x30 cm...

I'm back home now, so I'm going to write something about the island of Maupiti where I moved after one night on Motu Tiapaa (-:
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mr.minolta
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Re: French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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Bong!!! hat geschrieben: 11 Jun 2023 06:11
As for uploading photos - I use abload.de, and upload them there in the original resolution. So the resulting quality shouldn't differ from the photos I have stored on my phone.
Oh yes, my suggestion has been quite inaccurate.

Your photos got full resolution on that server but not in your postings right here. You used to put in those thumbnails, so it might be better to show a larger size. It's just a matter of setting the proper link.

Btw - the number of pictures taken with my phone is increasing as well... 😉
Es scheint, daß es neben der Republik der Seychellen auf der Welt kein zweites Land gibt, das für sich selbst derart ausdrücklich mit besonderem Umweltschutz wirbt und in der Realität so unfaßbar dreist das absolute Gegenteil davon praktiziert.
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Bong!!!
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Re: French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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Maupiti was probably the most "must see" island on my itinerary.

Very few tourists, no one speaks English, authentic, laid-back atmosphere, you can walk everywhere, beautiful lagoon, Bora Bora 50 years ago, beautiful Tereia beach, not much information online... No hotels, no Booking, Airbnb, Expedia... I searched for accommodation options on Google maps, Facebook, etc. According to the information available on the internet, you have to book flights and accommodation at least six months in advance.

I worked with this information and this is roughly what resonated in my mind when I was planning the whole thing.

The number of flights to this island is not large, so it is best to plan it as first or last - this is because the frequency of flights to/from Tahiti is the highest - and if you opt for the Air Tahiti pass, then you have to start and finish on Tahiti.

Alternatively, you can fly to/from Maupiti via Raiatea or Bora Bora. These two islands serve as a sort of transfer hubs for Air Tahiti (in addition to the island of Tahiti itself).

The morning flew by and I'm back on the boat and heading back to the main island. A view of Maupiti Island, including Mont Teurafaatiu, from a rather unusual angle.
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If there was something in high numbers on the islands, it was definitely the dogs. I don't think I've seen a cat before, hence the photo (-:
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The view from the only part of the road around the island that goes uphill (and then downhill), otherwise it is more or less flat. I was impressed by how clean and well maintained the public areas on the island were. I think it is also due to the fact that there are a relatively large number of people employed by the local government - including employees responsible for maintenance and cleaning of public areas, etc. Which kind of makes sense to me, because unless someone works in tourism, either directly or indirectly, there's not much else work to do in the private sector.

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All EXIF information is retained in the uploaded photos, incl. GPS coordinates, so it is possible to see exactly where the particular photo was taken.

The electricity supply for the island is provided by a small diesel power plant near the port.
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A phone booth, you don't see that often here anymore, that's why I took a picture.
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The local architecture is very traditional, typical of localities in this climate zone. Similar to the Seychelles, for example. But this house stood out.
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The road around Maupiti is approx. 13km long. Plus some paved narrow turn-offs from the main road to some higher building, small plantation, etc.

For how small an island it is, there were quite a few cars driving around. Not that the traffic was any kind of heavy or annoying, not really. But I was expecting it to be a bit more quiet in that respect. Just a sidenote. It certainly wasn't a shock like La Digue, where I was expecting 3 cars and... :shock: :lol:

What kept bugging me, especially on small islands... I mean, there really are all sorts of cars here... French, Japanese, Chinese brands that I first saw here... Old American pickups, new Mercedes and BMWs, a Volkswagen here and there... In terms of age, from 50-year-old cars to the modern ones. I've even seen a Hummer here in Maupiti:
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One thing I don't understand: how do they handle car repairs on Maupiti, for example? I mean in particular the availability of spare parts, special service fixtures, diagnostics, know how.... Especially if there is one - two garages with basic equipment on the island?

One of the churches on the island, this particular one was located in Vai'ea, which is kind of the "main" village on the island. I couldn't find out what church it belonged to.
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Generally, in terms of outreach, Seventh-day Adventists were quite visible on the islands. If only because they had a sign in front of every church with their logo.

The initial part of the hike to Mont Teurafaatiu, which is the highest peak on the island, elevation approximately just under 400m.

The start was a bit confusing as the telecommunications antenna serves as a starting point. The problem is that in the meantime another antenna has been built in this location, which has a nice path leading to it and is also more visible.
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Additionally, I was working with info from the previous day that the path is hard to see - so I didn't find it strange that I couldn't see any path near the antenna. So I searched, and searched, until I reached the second antenna and saw a nice path leading up.

View of Vai'ea village from approximately the first third of the hill.
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And here is the view from the top of the hill. It was a beautiful view and I spent almost an hour there. The weather was great and all the colors were just amazing. Definitely, one of the highlights. Onoiaou pass in the background, Motu Tiapaa on the left, Motu Pitiahe on the right.
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Otherwise, this hike is one of those that look easy from the description on the internet, but are actually a bit more challenging. The climb was quite steep though and sometimes I preferred to go on all fours. Approximately the last third of the climb was secured with ropes. At the top I was out of breath for a few minutes.

I chose a different route for the descent, interestingly it is not shown on openstreetmaps at all. However, it is marked and clearly visible. I would also say that this route is less physically demanding and dangerous.
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View from the descent.

The start of this trail is in the village of Pauma, just before the Palais de la Mer if you are coming from Vai'ea. Here’s the photo of the trailhead.
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Bong!!!
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Re: French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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mr.minolta hat geschrieben: 11 Jun 2023 20:17 Oh yes, my suggestion has been quite inaccurate.

Your photos got full resolution on that server but not in your postings right here. You used to put in those thumbnails, so it might be better to show a larger size. It's just a matter of setting the proper link.

Btw - the number of pictures taken with my phone is increasing as well... 😉
Yes, Abload allows you to select a larger thumbnail - approximately 800x600 or something similar. However, the problem then is that if I insert a larger number of photos into the text, it becomes hard to navigate. At least in my opinion.

But, looking at my last post, I limited the amount of photos here as well, so I may try that in my next post (-:
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Bong!!!
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Re: French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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Here are some photos from Tereia Beach. Basically, the only beach on the island.

Just so you understand, it's a nice beach, except that, by being the "only" beach on the island, much of the activity is concentrated there.

So, there are relatively quite a few tourists (for a local standards, no Mallorca in August, mind you), the snack chez Mimi which I imagined as some sort of shack is actually a building with some seating around it and a queue of people waiting for food... Furthermore, the Espace Beach and Maupiti Residence guesthouses are trying to usurp quite a large part of the beach - "strategically" placed boulders, no entry signs. Add to that the locals who kept driving here and there in pickup trucks, loud music. I would also like to point out that this is not a complaint against the locals - it's their island and I fully respect that I was there as a guest.

So, all in all, from my point of view, no romance. BUT, keep in mind that I'm comparing it to the wild beaches of the Seychelles and my ideal beach is one where no one is even in sight. So I want to say that approx.90% of people would love this beach.

In the 3 days I was in Maupiti, I think I was only there twice.

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Well, it's not the only beach, there are several other smaller beaches east along the coast where you can easily cross from Tereia - I never met anyone there. Kind of like Anse Source d'Argent on La Digue - everyone there, but just take a little walk along the coast and it's quiet:
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I also managed to meet 4 manta rays at the same time while kayaking. That was great. Unfortunately, just then the sky got cloudy, the wind and the waves picked up, it started to rain and water got into my waterproof backpack - because I opened it to take out my phone, so I could take some photos. So, everything wet and the new 65W powerbank dead.

The phone reported a disconnected USB port due to moisture, but luckily it survived (IP68 certification), however, until I thoroughly cleaned it at home with isopropyl alcohol the charging worked kind of funky. The salt water that got in there too is just a mess...

My cigarettes, lighter, and a portable ashtray were dry because I had them extra packed in a ziploc bag. So lesson for the next time, do the same with electronics and don't rely on just a backpack. :lol:

So, here's some $100 pictures (that's how much the powerbank cost):
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Re: French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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One of the more interesting Marae on the island, there were lots of them scattered around. In this case it is probably a partial replica.
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Otherwise they were in their original state, with a newly placed stone bearing the name of the particular Marae.
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Interestingly, in Maupiti, graves are built in the front yards of houses.
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A reminder that World War II was indeed a world war.
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What I found very interesting was the form of local building permits. That's what I call a piece of honest handiwork. I'm just not sure about the choice of material for the environment, but it's probably sufficient for that one year.
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A couple of photos from the more deserted, northern part of the island. Not that it's much busier elsewhere.
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And here are a few remaining photos from the island of Maupiti, which I didn't really put in the "story".
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One last note, there are no photos from Motu Auira. You can wade there from Tereia beach, normally the water is about waist deep most of the time. When I went there, the tide was in and the water was up to my chest. So I decided I'd better leave my phone at Tereia with my friends after the manta experience.

I went kayaking there the next day, but unfortunately nothing of reasonable quality came out of it.


And departure at last:
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Overall, I really liked Maupiti and I'm glad I managed to include this island in my itinerary, although it wasn't exactly easy. I liked the authenticity and such a nice sleepy atmosphere on the island.

I spent a total of 4 nights here and I'm so glad I was able to spend a day and a half on Tiapaa. If I were planning to do it again, I would probably add one more night there. Otherwise, I think three nights is sufficient on Maupiti. It's a relatively small island, after all. Sure, if you wanted to explore the island in more depth, I'm sure a full week would be fine, but I didn't have that ambition.

I would probably tone down a bit the enthusiasm in the travelogues that can be found variously on the internet. In the sense that it's not that much of a trip into the past, Tereia beach isn't that breathtaking, English is relatively easy to speak, and the availability of goods and services isn't that bad. It's not strictly cash only either. The truth is that there is still no ATM here. Well, there is, part of the local post office but it only works with local bank accounts. At the same time, I've read many times that you need to book accommodation at least six months in advance. I don't think that's true, there was still relatively plenty of availability. Maybe that was true 10-20 years ago.

Overall, I attribute these reviews to the fact that Maupiti is considered somewhat of an "Exclusive" island, for the reasons I list above, and people who have visited the place like to fuel that exclusivity even further.
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Suse
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Re: French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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Ha, the makeshift construction permits, I remember them well, the same on every island. :lol:

For the car repairs, as far as we learned, on the remote islands the parts come with the Goelettes or the Aranui and the repairs are done by relatives or owners themselves.

I appreciate your realistic description of Maupiti, all you hear is how special and exclusive it is, and we heard the same about booking a year in advance and stuff. I'll recommend your travelogue to some people that I know that have Maupiti (and the hike to Mont Teurafaatiu) set on top of their bucket list when going to French Polynesia.
Wenn du keine Kokosmilch hast, machste einfach normales Wasser.
- Grubi -

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Bong!!!
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Re: French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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Yes as far as parts go, I believe they will get there somehow, although it probably won't be quick nor exactly cheap. If I were to buy a Hummer with the expectation of driving it on Maupiti, I'd probably have it shipped to the island loaded with spare parts for 10 years ahead - at least ones that could be safely long term stored there (-: But I was wondering more about how they handle, say, more modern cars where even basic repairs needs advanced diagnostics, etc. Alternatively, the various problems arising from the use of modern technologies in premium European brands, which are sometimes difficult to resolve even in authorised dealerships in Europe. Cars are a bit of a hobby of mine, and in this particular case I'm a bit sad that I haven't had the opportunity to discuss the subject with someone more in depth (-:

You're welcome, I always try to look at things from all angles and evaluate objectively - that's why I sometimes state to what I'm comparing and so on. Although, in retrospect, I wonder if I didn't portray Maupiti in too negative view (-: I certainly haven't left with unmet expectations, quite the opposite. Coincidentally, I was recently discussing French Polynesia with some friends of mine who have been planning a trip there for some time and I have recommended Maupiti (-:
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Re: French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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Huahine:
After four nights in Maupiti, it was time for another transfer - this time to the island of Huahine. Both islands are relatively less visited and so the air connections are relatively limited. For this reason, I travelled with a transfer on the island of Raiatea, which, like Bora Bora, acts as a sort of transfer station.

I had originally wanted to visit this island for multiple days, specifically a combination of 1.5 days on Raiatea and 1.5 days on Tahaa, but unfortunately, due to time limitations, I had to drop it from my itinerary.

I had approx. two hours during the layover, so I used it to at least take a short walk around the airport.

Local airpor, at the island of Raiatea:
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And a local garage, more advanced than the one located on Maupiti (-:
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View of the mountains from the road near the airport:
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And after a while it was time to leave for Huahine:
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I didn't arrive on the island until late afternoon, so I hadn't planned anything for that day, except for a short tour of Fare, the main "village" on the island, which took about 20 minutes (-: I only just realized that I didn't leave any photos on my phone... So at least a photo of the baguettes at the local SuperU, which was open daily from 5:30 :-D
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By the way, why did I take the photo, because baguettes are one of the few products that are cheaper here than in Europe - the price of 60 francs per piece is valid in the whole country and is fixed with the production of baguettes being subsidized, if I'm not mistaken there is a bakery on every island.
And by the way, they were good, I like pastries quite a bit and since I get up early, I sometimes stopped for a fresh baguette on the way to the trek, broke it into 3 pieces and tossed it in my backpack for a later snack (-:

The next day after I picked up the car, early in the morning I went to a nearby hill (I lived right in Fare), Mount Tapu.
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The sign on the chain translates to "Pauline warmly welcomes you to the island of Huahine and wishes you a pleasant walk".

Well, at least I think so, as I mentioned in the introduction, my knowledge of French is relatively weaker (-:

By the way, renting a car was quite a problem, I wrote to about 4 rental companies and got no answer.
14 days before departure I started to get a bit nervous because I had only two days in Huahine and I needed a car to comfortably do everything I had planned.
I finally contacted the concierge service I have tied to one of my bank accounts and to my surprise they were able to make the reservation within an afternoon (European time). I should probably learn to use this service more often...
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Suse
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Re: French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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Your translation was absolutely correct, your French is brilliant! :mrgreen: By the way Mount Tapu means the Inviting Mountain where everybody is welcome to hang around. :lol:

Let's see what happened next... :wink:
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Re: French Polynesia in April/May 2023 (Travelogue in English)

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What an interesting coincidence (-: Thanks for that information.

While I totally respect the relationship of the Polynesians to their land, these fences, chains, etc., kind of bugged me. They were actually quite common on all the islands.

On Fakarava, for example, someone had secured a small piece of completely barren and uninteresting land on the outer edge of the atoll. I could think of no reason for going there at all.

I have to admit that I rather quickly started to ignore it, as in the case above - if it was obvious that it was just a piece of land and I wasn't going to walk through the garden of someone's house.

At the same time, I have to say that I was never kicked out from anywhere (as I read in various trip reports), even when I inadvertently ended up on the property next to someone's house - it was enough to wait a while after the dogs started barking and the owner appeared - who always let me cross his or her property to where I needed to go without any problems.

Otherwise, the walk to Mount Tapu was nice:
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With a nice view of the lagoon:
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The photo above is approximately from the first half of the hike, after that it was climbing on a relatively narrow path on the rock, where there wasn't much to hold on to comfortably, so for safety reasons I didn't take my phone out of my backpack to take photos. About two thirds of the way up I turned back.

Then I went to the beach at the now closed Sofitel hotel (closed around 2004). Supposedly there should be good snorkeling, which I'm not so keen on, so I stayed on the beach for a while and then explored the ruins of bungalows etc. I was surprised that all the sanitary equipment hadn't disappeared from there.

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By the way, when I was checking the date of Sofitel's closure, I came across an interesting document:
https://journals.openedition.org/viatou ... 18?lang=en

Too bad I didn't think to research this information before my trip, because then I would have visited this abandoned place as well:
The story of the Hana Iti Hotel deserves to be mentioned. This original and luxurious hotel, built by the co-founder of Microsoft, Paul Allen, was the symbol of successful integration into the natural habitat (Document No.3b). The wasteland resulted in a revealing exhibition of illegitimate appropriations. Implements were looted (especially sanitary appliances) and the installations were reduced to pieces (roofs and roof structures, window and door frames). In the end, all that remained were concrete sheets, rotting in the humid undergrowth...
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