Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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foto-k10
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Re: Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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Bong!!! hat geschrieben: 06 Dez 2021 01:03 After some time spent at the Anse La Blague beach, I'm moving to the Anse Lazio. I consider it a nice beach indeed. But generally speaking, in Seychelles, I prefer more "cozy" and quiet places. Here's a few pictures of the building site behind the beach and of the beach itself. I'll leave evaluation of the current status to you. I do not consider all the development necessary, I've even heard, that gated (and charged) parking lot is planned, but haven't checked / confirmed this particular information. But who am I to judge..?
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Yes Anse Lazio - only genuine with the hissing sound of buzzsaws :lol:

On your picture the beach is in the background of the left size?

I made a similar picture 2020:

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Inside the green fence of corrugated iron the building have now the second floor and the stairs in front. Not much for a whole year, more or less they are still not finished. And what is that building on the right side? In 2020 was only grass and some parking space.
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Bong!!!
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Re: Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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Not much of a progress for sure, I haven't checked the pictures but I think that it is fenced at least from 2019.

The entrance to the beach lies on the left hand side, looking at the picture, yes.

Building on the right is some sort of a souvenir shop, but it wasn't operational during my last visit. Not sure if the place needed something like this and if it'll be even profitable...

Here's a few additional pictures from the area, including the souvenir shop from a different angle (-:
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foto-k10
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Re: Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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Bong!!! hat geschrieben: 08 Dez 2021 12:17 Building on the right is some sort of a souvenir shop, but it wasn't operational during my last visit. Not sure if the place needed something like this and if it'll be even profitable...
Thnaks.
A shop selling bottles of water, softdrinks and sunscreen would be better for Anso Lazio.
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Bong!!!
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Re: Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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Praslin day #4
I've decided that it'll be good time to finally explore Au Cap area and surrounding beach Anse Gouverment. For some reason, I've ignored this part of the island before. After all, it's a short ride since I'm staying in Cote d'Or area this time. I've also planned another hike for today - Anse Matelot. This particular beach doesn't yield much of a search results, so I came into conclusion that if it won't be nice, It'll be quiet at least (-:

There should be a hiking trail, nut much used, sometimes hard to follow and leading mostly through open terrain and over the granite rocks on the north. Starting in Anse La Blague, near this building as marked on Google maps (there's even something like a path visible):
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Estimated time, one way approx. 3 hours.

After yestardays unsuccessful search for another not much used hiking trail in Anse La Blague... (-: I've decided for a different and more straightforward approach. Get there from the L'Archipel hotel, looking at the map, it's not that far so I could probably swim there too, provided the ocean will be calm, which was. Despite being early June, weather in general, was rather windless for most of the time.

Starting at the wetlands in a southern part of the Au Cap area, lot of crabs in the area, indicating clean environment:
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On the nearby beach too:
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In terms of weather, I'm still lucky, no rain, no wind..:
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I've approached the gate at the entrance to L'Archipel and asked nicely if it'll be possible to cross the hotel grounds in order to get the beach in front of it. No problem and one of the porters leads me there through the hotel restaurant. Hotel itself was almost empty, only handful of guests are hanging around the beach or sitting at the tables outside. I'm being the only non guest.

View from the water:
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And here's something under water, finally, I saw something else from the usual crabs and spiders (-: Not that I would purposedly looking for most of the time..(-:
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I've spent some time on the beach and did some rock climbing, waiting for the tide to get lower, altought at wasn't necessary... Still, not many people around... Whole place was rather quiet.
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Now, around this rock I'll be going to access Anse Matelot, which should be located somewhere behind it. Tide is getting lower, so it should be clearly visible.
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I've noticed a hole in my waterproof pouch, so I'm leaving phone on the beach along with everything else. I'm briefly informing hotel's lifeguard about what I'm going to do, since I'm alone and won't have phone with me (+ It's first time I'm going, so I don't have exact idea what to expect). I'm always playing it rather safe when hiking alone in unknown terrain and without phone or reception.

I was swimming around the rock, just as the hotel was out of sight, I've noticed a spot where I could comfortably got out of the water. After that, it was possible to *walk* almost all the way to the Anse Matelot. Maybe all the way, but I went back to the water for last 20-30 meters or so as I've considered it safer than climbing with stepping on a wet slippery stone coated in algae. Maybe it'll be possible to get a bit higher in some point and get there "dry feet", but who knows... Maybe next time (-:

On my way back, I saw lifeguard approaching on a kayak looking for me if I needed any help or asisstance. Really nice.


Well deserved reward after the "hike":
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Rest of the day I'm spending between Anse Boudin and Anse Takamaka, near small islet on which you could walk during low tide. I think it has a name but I can't recall it at the moment. My old trusty hiking flip flops are pictured here as well (-: If they ever fall apart at some point, I'll bury them in Seychelles (-:
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Time to get a cold Seybrew:
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And drink it during an electricity outage, pure romance...
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Zuletzt geändert von Bong!!! am 08 Dez 2021 18:14, insgesamt 2-mal geändert.
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foto-k10
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Re: Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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Anse Matelot was a topic several years ago.
In 2009 I got the answer "No trespassing of L'archipel hotel area, you have to take a boat to Anse Matelot".

The beginning of your posting I don't understand. The accomodations on your map - Villa Anse la Blague, Summer Self Catering - are at the northern part of the beach Grand Anse la Blague. In 2020 I went the road to the end. Not sure, if it was Rock Bay Villa. But there was a fence. All these trails OpenStreetMap shows leading more to north are not accessible.
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Bong!!!
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Re: Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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I had similar info about L'Archipel and crossing their property. Maybe current situation made them to change this attitude towards non guests ? Don't know how it was for real in the first place (before pandemic), as I've never been there brefore to ask. I can imagine that if someone waltzed in there full of sh*t and arrogance, he or she might've been refused entry and then spat poison all over at every occasion for a while... But that's just my quick thinking / assumptions not related to anything on this forum.

Anyway, even if the L'Archipel would be refusing access through their grounds, it is possibble to access the beach in front of the hotel from the adjacent beach on the left (standing in front of the hotel facing the water) and therefore, remain all the time in the public space.

Here's the bigger snap from the Google Maps showing the supposed trail start together with Anse Matelot location:
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Trail itself is not marked on Openstreet maps, but it should exist. Unfortunately, haven't had the time to check it out personally.
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Bong!!!
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Re: Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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Praslin day #5
Destination planned for today - Curieuse islant isn't much far from the place where I'm staying either. Thanks to it's position near equator, there's always dark after 18:30 in Seychelles, so I usually fall asleep earlier and earlier I'm up (-:

Approx. at 6:30 I'm at Anse Volbert village for a walk... On the picture below, Ristorante Da Luca, one of the restaurants I've frequented during previous visits, closed at the time, maybe for good..:
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Deserted Cote d'Or in the morning:
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Found myself a shady spot at the entrance to nearby apartment. Not expecting much of a traffic (-:
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Arround 8:00, I'm starting to look for a boat that would take me to the Curieuse. Under normal circumstances, quite straightforward, but problem is that the local tour operators at the beach are waiting till last minute if there will be enough customers to make the trip profitable. Trying some of my contacts and I've got posibility of a private transfer for 100 EUR excl. landing fee (which has been increased from 200 SCR to 400 SCR if I remember well), just in case. Few minutes before 9:00, I'm joining an Italian couple so there are 3 of us on the boat + skipper (-: For a price of 50 EUR, landing fee included. I've turned down offer for the barbecue, since I've planned some extra hiking on the island and this kind of a barbecue isn't my cup of tea anyway (-:

My co-passengers are on their first vacation in Seychelles and I must admit that I'm a bit envious... My first vacation in Seychelles is the most memorable, although it was terribly planned (-: We're talking about our plans, sharing experiences, so the boat ride passes quickly.


View on Chave Souris from the boat. I think that this island has been owned by Giorgio Armani in the past. Now it's operated by some Italians. Not sure If I would enjoy my time on the teracce, being photographed by every passenger on the boats passing by (-:
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Few pictures from the turtle sanctuary:
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This guy is either blind or been watching too much porn (-: Reminded me of some book from my childhood, where I've read that if turtle bites you in the hand, you have to either cut off your hand or turtle's head. If that's true then it makes this practice dangerous indeed.
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Plan for today is to hike to the Anse Badamier, then Anse St. José and after that, if time permits - the heritage trail located on SW coast of the island.
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I've overheard conversation of a fellow visitors to the island with someone from the staff, asking about trail to the Anse Badamier - it is closed he says... Guess I'll see about it then (-: I'm sticking to the "Whoever asks too much, will find out too much" this time as I really want to visit this place, actually, it's the main reason why I'm here today.


Let's go then:
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Despite the fact that island has been deforested in the past, it offers beautiful views along the path:
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At the crossroad, instead of continuing to the Anse St. José, I'm taking the right turn to the Anse Badamier trail.
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After some time, I see concrete pilons in the ground with wooden planks over it. Looks like they're constructing new boardwalk in this section of the trail, so that was probably the reason why it's been "closed", not much of a drama. Other than that, I'd like to point out the trail is signposted and I'm sticking to it (-:
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Path goes up:
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With a view of Mt. Curieuse, highest peak on the island. Well, a hill might be more accurate...
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South coast:
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Visitor shelter up on the hill:
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Now I'm starting to think that it was really worth the detour:
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I have to admit, this is one of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen. Spending some time here, alone, just enjoying being here...
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But it's time to continue, already on a way to the Anse St. José. On a second picture, for a change, biggest crab I've ever seen. Today is truly a day of wonders :lol:
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Along the way & view of the turtle pond:
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Remnants of the former leprosarium situated on the island on the way to Anse St. José:
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Doctor's house and some surrounding buildings:
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I've walked past doctor's house on a path leading further west along the coast (supposed to be the heritage trail I'd say), after while, I've reached this building:
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Where I've been approached by some woman (of an european origin, british accent) and a dog, origin unknown. Claiming that I'm trespassing a private property and there's nothing past it.

Well, to be honest I wasn't in a mood for an argument as I was rather tired after several days mostly exposed to the pitiless sunlight (I was usually leaving apartment at 6:00, returning after dark), so I've let it go and went back to the Anse St. José to read a book (-: After all, I've already seen the important things for the day.

Later, I've found out that her presence had probably something to do with this: https://www.gvi.co.uk/location/volunteer-in-curieuse/

Maybe I could've just ignored her, I dunno.


Anse St. José, at the time, heavilly afected by a seaweed.
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I've had some other plans for the day, but I've felt a bit tired, so I'm letting it go and remain on the deserted Cote d'Or beach:
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I've stopped at the usual supermarket near the road at Anse Volbert on my way home, to buy a cold Seybrew for the evening. And was spotted by a guy at the nearby fruit stall, whose offers I've always turned down on the previous days. Not many tourists, so I'm easily recognized, especially when I pop up there to buy a beer almost each day. Fait accompli and I really HAVE TO finally buy something from him.

So I'm handing over my last 50 SCR bill (actually, all the cash I've had at the moment) that I'm leaving fruit selection to him if that 50 SCR is enough.


This is what I'm getting in return:
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Thanks for the reading and good night (-: Tomorrow, I'm heading to La Digue.
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foto-k10
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Re: Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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Nothing else than a crab?
You don't see the mudskippern in the swamp area?

I only watched Anse Badamier from the top. Rain had washed out the trail downstairs.
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Re: Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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I'm sure that I must've seen something else, but didn't took a picture of it. Huge crabs and mating turtles were sort of highlight for the day in this regard (-:

Yes, I can imagine that the path leading down from the shelter could be treacherous during / or right after the rains, as it's acting as a gutter, already damaged by the running water.
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Re: Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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Praslin day #6

I've realized that I've forgot to share one picture from yestarday - a blue crab at Cote d'Or. These are more rare than a red ones. It's also better in terms of taste (as I've been told, haven't tried).
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My last day on Praslin. Ferry to La Digue is leaving at 11:30, so I'm packing my backpack & heading out to check a few places before departure.

One particular beach among them, in some older posts here, I've learned that it is "secret", so be it & EXIF information deleted (-:
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It's also a good place for collecting empty shells, taking just a few with me.
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And leaving the rest for the others:
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Time to go, there was like 20 people on the boat, mostly tourists. Weather is cloudy, I wonder if it'll be raining too. If I remember well, every time I headed to La Digue, it was raining...
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Re: Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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La Digue day #1, part 1 of 2

I do remember my first visit of this island very well. That time, we've been staying just on Praslin and visited La Digue as a day trip.

Calm, laid-back atmosphere, car free, ecology... Those were and still are, most popular keywords.


To be honest, for some reason, I've imagined La Digue as I've seen it as a child in some older documentary on a TV...
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Now, describing the reality on this forum would be like bringing owls to Athens, right ? (-: What were my impressions of this place ?

At that time, I knew only Praslin. And Praslin, that was and still is in my opinion the most calm and laid back island from the 3 islands with (some significant) local population. When I hear Seychelles, Praslin comes in my mind.

Coming to La Digue (with unrealistic expectations) after week on Praslin, mostly spent in Anse Kerlan area, that was quite a shocker. Crowds on a boat, crowds in the port, crowds on the streets, bikes everywhere, heavy machinery and various construction tools echoing in the air. I was thinking like what the... While Seychellois on Praslin were friendly, I've got rather unfriendly impression of those on La Digue.

But anyway, I've always felt some strange kind of genius loci that place still had. Despite all the facts I've mentioned above. It must've been unique experience like 30 years ago.

How is it going to look like, without crowds of tourists ?

We've been usually staying at La Reunion, few years ago, at Liane De Mai which was little bit away from everything. This time I'm staying at guest house in La Passe, close to the port.

Port area was unusually quiet, most of co-passengers have been picked up by their hotels. I'm waiting for pickup (as I'm not 100% sure where exactly it is) near souvenir shop, poor choice of meeting place, as I'm being subject of interest for all vendors nearby. Next time, ferry terminal would be a better choice, as sales there are forbidden (-:

Took a quick look around and I'm exchanging some of cigarettes bought in Addis for a "bike" (-:

I'm heading towards Grand Anse through main street. To be honest, without tourists and with many locals staying at home because of local Covid outbreaks, I almost can't recognize the place. Most of the time, it's almost dead quiet everywhere.


Picture of the area in front of Gregoire's and one of the streets nearby:
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I'm always checking wires above street leading to Grand Anse, as I remember it being full of spiders in the past. Not so much this time:
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I can hear Grand Anse rumbling in the distance...
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I've noticed a new signpost, there's now an official hiking trail, actually it leads past Anse Songe, ending at the rock under which you have to crawl (or climb over) in order to continue to Anse Marron. More on that later.
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I couldn't believe my eyes, normally, this place is full of parked bikes and if you haven't come early in the morning, you had to look thoroughly where to place yours.
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Re: Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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Bong!!! hat geschrieben: 10 Dez 2021 17:31

And Praslin, that was and still is in my opinion the most calm and laid back island from the 3 islands with (some significant) local population. When I hear Seychelles, Praslin comes in my mind.

Praslin is the granitic island that attracts me the least (with exception of the Vallé de Mai, which is, of course, truly unique).

Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I am so much with you on that. In my mind, La Digue is still the way I fancied it before even going there for the first time :wink: My utmost influence when it comes to wanting to get to know Seychelles was my late colleague Eva, which I remember fondly and who traveled the world in the Seventies of the last century and had a completely different travel experience than we get today. Somehow what she told and showed me still sticks to my mind. I guess, when she came to La Digue they didn't even have Oxcarts there because they weren't even invented by the St. Ange-Family. :lol:

The overcrowding isn't even my problem. Its the dwindling authenticity, the lack of creole life that is not directly connected to tourism. Everything you do, every experience is commercialized. Jules Restaurant in Anse Banane used to be one of our favourite places, even in 2011, dude had the time to chat with us, sit with us, show me how to tie a creole broom, stuff like that, invite us over to his house for lunch. Today there's an overpriced "Chez" Jules", nothing personal there. Just to give one example, why I am done with La Digue. Perhaps, if we are lucky enough to be able to travel long distance for the next 20 years, we'll come back to have a glimpse if things perhaps have turned the other way again. I believe, history runs in amplitudes, everything has it's prime time and is then replaced by something else, so perhaps... If I had had the means (and enough days of vacation) I would have gone to Seychelles this year too, you were lucky to have seen the Island so empty, esp. Grand Anse is really full again now, they even had the first drowned tourist.

Looking forward to the next sequel. :D
Wenn du keine Kokosmilch hast, machste einfach normales Wasser.
- Grubi -

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Re: Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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You're right, I feel it same. Despite the mass tourism and everything related to it, there is something about this place, just more or less shrouded by what you've written in your post. Nut sure why, maybe because the exploitation is most visible on La Digue - in sheer contrast with it's charm and history, here in this place, it probably makes me most often to stop and think. Think about how it was like in the past - the people, culture, atmosphere, how it looked like...

Sometimes, I wonder, If there are some similar places ? Culturaly-wise, it could be Rodrigues (part of Mascarenes), spent there a week and liked it a lot. But in terms of landscape, size, vegetation, it's different.
French Polynesia maybe ? There are few islands I would really like to visit. But it's a hell of a trip for sure. Costs aside. Seychelles in comparison would be like a week in Bibione (-:

Actually, I think that I've never visited Chez Jules... Many times I've been hanging around, but never visited. Wanted to stop for one Seybrew during this visit, but I was interrupted by something work related and urgent over the phone... But I've heard that Jules became kind of grumpy over the years, although, that's just a hearsay that I can't confirm, nor question as I didn't have chance to meet Jules in person.

Traveling in the past must've been completely different and much more adventurous experience, especially in terms of planning and "the moment of surprise", as one didn't had whole bunch of actual information at the fingertips. During one of my previous trips to Seychelles, I've met an Austrian couple who has been visiting Seychelles for like 30 years (and many other interesting places), we've spent several evenings on the terrace discussing this topic, among the others, like "Bad Curry" vs "Bat Curry" (-:

Vallée de Mai is an unique place indeed, when I've been there for the first time, I've spent good amount of time just wandering around admiring it's beauty. There's also some sort of an unofficial hiking trail, a least I think, in that area. Like opposite the Glacis Noir. But still haven't looked into it more thoroughly. Well, maybe next time ? (-:

Thanks for the information about ox carts, I did not know that it was St. Ange family invention (-:

So La Digue is like getting closer to it's original pre-covid numbers ? That's interesting, I wouldn't expect that. Although I've heard that they had lot of bookings for this season (from October onwards).

Drowning occurs fairly often at Grand Anse, I remember that it happened two times during my presence on the island. And I wasn't visiting it that much often. Of course, it could be just an coincidence, but still, I would be curious about total statistics...
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Re: Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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La Digue day #1, part 2 of 2
Not many people on Grand Anse either, bit it could be contributed also the weather, mostly overcast and I've been expecting some rain. Other than that, choppy and noisy as usual.
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There's also a new fruit / juice stall at the beach (at least I think that I haven't seen it in 2019), I understand that everyone has to make living and customers are scarce these days, but guys at the stall are a bit annoying...

Anyway, I continue towards Anse Cocos - by the way, there's another "new" official hiking route, leading from Grand Anse to Anse Caiman, cannot find picture of the signpost at the moment though.


Stopping for a moment at Petite Anse, not spending much time here, honestly, I was never fan of these 3 beaches - way too large, usually not safe to swim and the rock pool at the end of Anse Cocos was always packed.
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Cross near path leading to Petite Anse. I think that it wasn't here before either.
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And don't forget about the larger blue crabs, of course (-:
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Information boards along the trail to Anse Cocos:
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Beach bar at Anse Caiman ? For real ? Guess I'll see for myself on the next day or so.
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Already at Anse Cocos. Nut sure if that fallen tree was here before ? I think not, but as I've pointed out in my previous post I've never spent much time around.
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But this is definitely a new addition to the beach. Now you can wait for your turn at the rock pool drinking in the bar... (-:
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This building is located behind the bar, wanted to go inside and noticed that somebody is already there (-: Kind of cringe feeling knowing that there's nobody around (except for a person in that building).
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So I continue to the rock pool, this time, empty.
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I wanted to continue towards Anse Caiman, to have a beer at the new bar, but light drizzle starts and I got a bad feeling about that, so I've decided to go back. Thing is, on La Digue, I've experienced the biggest downpours in Seychelles, those in which you stand for a few seconds and it's like jumping into water.

Weather has improved and rain stopped, so I'm stopping at Mimi's Café, for a cup of coffee (-: It's closed, but lady that owns the sees me outside and I'm invited in. She is preparing pancakes for her little daughter, so I'm getting one too (-:
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Few pictures of the surroundings of the guesthouse I'm staying at - "Chez Mary Anne", rooms are simple, but it's clean and overaly nice. It's not a business trip, so I don't need much - apart from the fridge for a Seybrew and patio where I could sit and listen to the sounds of fruit bats in the evening (-: Mary Anne with her son is running this place, both are nice and helpful. I'm the only one guest here too.
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Re: Seychelles in May/June 2021 (Travelogue in English)

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Mary-Anne or her son or both like the colour orange? :wink:
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